One man’s War
Filipe Rodriquez knows war. At 17 as a soldier in the Cuban army serving in Angola, he witnessed armed conflict first- hand. Today the 58 year old Cuban fishing guide is fighting another battle, one that is waged on two fronts, economic and environmental.
Filipe’s front line is the pristine flats and rivers of the Zapata swamp and his weapons are fly rods, a fly tying bench and the young people of the pueblos of Playa Larga and Jaquey Grande.
Lying just two hours south of bustling Havana, the Zapata swamp is the largest fresh water conservation preserve in the Caribbean. Each season multitudes of birders, naturalist and fishermen flock to experience its’ wild beauty. Playa Larga, the small pueblo resting on the palm lined beach of the Bay of Pigs welcomes these visitors with multitudes of Casa Particulars – the Cuban version of a bed and breakfast.
From Playa Larga buses and private taxis transport fishermen, kayakers and birders into the vast expanses’ of Zapata and the fly fishing Mecca of Las Salines. Others journey down Rio Hatiquanico hoping to catch a glimpse of Cuban Black hawks, manatees or hook leaping tarpon.
Although a government owned beachfront resort caters to organized groups, many visitors find lodging and meals at the Casa Particulars where superior food and service is available at a much reduced price. Casa Particulars and Palidars (private restaurants) are two of the fastest growing and most profitable businesses in Cuba’s private sector today.
2016 marked the expansion of angling opportunities in Zapata with two companies, Edridan and Avalon Fishing Centers securing recreational fishing rights to the vast shallow waters of La Salina and the winding spring fed Rio Hatiquanico. Both Companies growth plans hinge around the predicted invasion of American anglers.
And, although environmentally friendly catch and release practices are adhered to by visiting fishermen, the park is in danger. Pressure to feed the tourist have created an epidemic in poaching of both fish and lobster inside Zapata’s boundaries. The lack of enforcement of park rules against netting and harvesting is primarily due to a shortage of funds for rangers and patrol boats.
Fishing guides act as the eyes and ears of the government but understandably are hesitant to report on neighbors and many times childhood friends violating fishing laws. After all, they understand and sympathize with a man attempting to feed his family, or purchase shoes for his children.
Filipe’s approach to solving the poaching problem is innovated. By educating the young sons, daughters, nephews and nieces of the fishermen, he hopes the lessons bestowed on this new generation will trickle up. As he describes his goal, the passion for his natural setting is only overshadowed by his love of the children he instructs. With the patience of Joab and the persistence of Ahab, Filipe’s mission is dedicated to his charges, both human and nature.
After work, after school and on free weekends Filipe instructs the children in the art of fly casting. His youngest student is a five year old girl. Every lesson begins with a small lecture on the economic value of protecting Zapata’s fishing resource. Then using donated supplies including hair from the family dog, he instructs the older children in the intricate art of tying flies, a skill which also generates a small income stream.
The flies – which are specially tailored for the area – are sold to visiting anglers helping many of the families of the students. Supplies are scarce and Filipe’s resources are limited, but he uses what he can spare from his minimal personal income.
Filipe recently located a finca (farm) that borders the preserve and can be purchased for a modest sum. His dream is to convert the small house into an environmental classroom and fly fishing school. Funds are available from a group of American fisherman but laws on both sides of the straits are at this time can be somewhat confusing and contradicting.
What is truly needed is an environmental group with international standing to back Filipe’s project and cut through any governmental red tape.
We have formed a small group including Jeffery Boutwell –Latin American Working Group – and Patrick Hemingway dedicated to fund raising for this unique and innovative approach to just one of the many environmental challenges facing Cuba today.
We believe the Zapata preserve could become an easily viewed example of how government, environmental groups and the private sector working together can help Cuba emerge as the premier eco-tourist destination of the Caribbean.
Capt Phil Thompson